Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) III

25 Sep 06

班芙

清晨一大早我们就出发前往MORAINE湖。这是洛基山脉众多的雪山溶湖之一，由溶化的雪水积成。湖水泛蓝，是因为雪水从山上冲下来的时候，带了石粉，细小的粉末在水里反射太阳光，将美丽的蓝色反射到了我们的眼里。我们早上７：３０到达湖边，冻得半死。敲开湖边饭店的门，美丽的加拿大眉眉给我们开门，但没有咖啡，因为还没有开门。我们少歇片刻，去湖边散步。太冷，总觉这个大名鼎鼎的湖有点虚有其名。

再次回到湖边饭店，另一位美丽的加拿大眉眉给我们端来了咖啡，还是免费的。

再回湖边，沿山向上，我们要去LARCH谷。一路辛苦爬山，还担心着熊，山下路开始的地方挂着排子：６人以上才可上山（人多不怕熊？）。我们两个早起的鸟将山头占为己有，只希望熊熊不要来凑热闹。一小时的山路以后，终于到达LARCH谷。金黄的树林，九座雪峰环绕，风过，草矮。晓楠高高兴兴的啪呀啪，“今天的任务完成了。”同感。

等我们下山，已是午饭时分。决定去吃班芙第一流的大旅馆加饭店：FAIRMONT温泉大旅馆。它的午饭自助餐很有名的。我们大吃一顿，好吃，环境又好。

下面逛街。又洗温泉。一天又过。

Banff

Based on past experience (mostly Yellowstone trip), Xiaonan decided we need hit the road very early every day. So, we got up and headed for Moraine Lake at 6:00am. It was a very cold morning. As we arrived at Moraine lake, it was still dark, only the lodge aside the lake had light on. There were no way we could enjoy anything when we were half frozen, so, the two early birds knocked the lodge cafe. A cup of hot coffee would save us. The hostess inside unlocked the door and let us in, but no coffee, they were not open yet.

We took a brief walk around the Moraine lake. Somehow it was a bit disappointing. It was described as the double must see in area. But, the lake was small, the water was light blue with a hint of green. As a lot of lakes in the Rocky area, this is a galacier lake. It's feed by meltwater from the surrouding galacial peaks. "The glaciers grind the rock beneacth them in to fine power, called rock flour. Meltwater wash this powder into the lake, the resulant slity water absorbs all colors of incoming light, except the striking turquoise and vivid blue that reflects back to our eyes." The note from the lakeside tells the secret of the lake. Walter Wilcox was the first white reached it in 1899. He wrote "no scene has given me an equal impression of inspring solitude and rugged grandeur". However, we didn't feel the same.

When we back to the lodge cafe again, another hostess in soft French accent offered us coffee, finally, also for free! Xiaonan thought both hostesses were quite beautiful.

After Xiaonan agreed to have breakfast in this lodge cafe after the walk, we headed for the Larch Valley trail. It's a 1.8 mile hike, elevation gain is 1310 feet. We suppose to travel in 6 people group (this is bear area), ok, we didn't, being the early birds. It was all uphill, thus tough. When we finally reached the valley, it was worthwhile. The glacited mountains embrace the valley, there are more than 9 peaks all around. Then in the valley, the larch forest surroundes a large piece of meadow. Those larch trees have turned a brillant gold. We were the only two guests there, in the valley. Xiaona took photos. I sat on top of a log bridge and drool over the views. It was so quiet up there. The water was runing in the creek, the birds wre chirping, diffrent ones had diffrent songs. Somehow I thought I could hear the wind crossing the meadow.

When we back to lodge cafe, we missed breakfast already. So we decided to have lunch in the famouse Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. It was built first in 1888, and expanded twice in 1928 and 1999. The hotel is huge, it's a castle. We had lunch inside the hotel. The lunch buffet. The food was heavenly, salmon, beef, all so tender, even tasty bistons. The mango mouse was so delicious! $28 each.

Then we shop dead along Banff Ave. Too expensive though, only bought very few items.

Then we spent the afternoon in upper hot spring. The 39'C hot water, in a swiming pool. We soaked in, under the blue sky, enjoying the breeze and great view. It was a good day too.