Saturday, October 28, 2006

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐)



23 Sep 06 - 29 Sep 06
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) I
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) II
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) III
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) IV
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) V
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) VI
Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) VII

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) VII

29 Sep 06

嘉诗泊 II

EDITH CAVELL 我们近距离的看冰川。融化的一部分是湖,冰川从山上下来,一点一点融为水。冰川的融化, 冰川的消失,是现实,我们目睹着这个进行。冰川融后的山谷,很难长其他的植物,只有松树的幼苗悄悄的开始新的一轮树和冰川的争斗。

我们的洛基山脉游也到此。9。30 一路飞车回美国,在SEATTLE留宿一晚,第二天的飞机回家。

Jasper II

Edith Cavell.
Mette hot spring. The view to the top is impressive too. The forest, vastly green, but there are yellow spots sparsely. "like bread crumbs" according to nan.

712 Patrica str, the B&B was kinda disappointing.

Revisited Medicine Lake area, to try to capture the last moment of the day to the film. The day before, we saw a three-legged bird on the lagoon, well, it turned out be a man with his tripod. We also saw some of most beautiful sunsets there the day before. So, we tested our luck again. The lagoon was quite full now, the view was different. We didn't catch the same sunset there any more.

That concludes our trip in Canadian Rockies.

A lot of most beautiful moments we saw were when we were driving. We could not photo them, we could only take it with us by remembering. When we were in Canadian Rockies area, we were like being soaked into the massive sense of beauty of nature. We were living in it, they are the air, the breeze, the sky and the mountains. I don't think I was impressed by its famous glacial lakes, they are too icy for me, instead I was taken by its overall grandness. Malign Canyon remains my favorite.

200 more miles driving was for 30 Sep 06, as well as a night in Ramada in Seattle. 1 Oct 06 we were back home. Coming back to home, is even better.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) VI

28 Sep 06

嘉诗泊

去了ICEFIELD冰川开拓号之游。贵,不值。一台奇慢的车拖着一车人到冰川站15分钟。 我们嘉诗泊的第一站,MALIGN(神秘)谷就是我最喜欢的地方。请看照片。 晚上回旅馆的路上还遇见黑熊一家三口。

Jasper I


Icefield explorer tour. expensive, cold. We don't think it's worth the money. In stead, people should go to Columbia icefield by themselves. I was waiting for nan in the car, while he climbed all the way up to see the icefield and glaciers. The car was shaking when wind blowed. Rubble mountain ahead. Dirty. Nan reported that some of ice was coated with deep dark coal-like skin. I kinda regretted not going with him.

Then we entered Jasper. I liked the Jasper better than Banff. The first reason, Maligan Canyon. It is impressive. It's a canyon etched by those acid meltwaters by thousands of years. There are six bridges cross over the canyon. We arrived first to the second bridge.We was stunned by how deep and narrow the canyon is. It is 51m deep. The water has tore the mountain apart. And the action still goes on. We hiked to the third and fourth bridges. Evalation changed dramatically. The canyon in fourth bridge was not a canyon anymore, but a creek. The icy water could be reached from the bank. Then we came back to see the first bridge. A 21m waterfall welcome us there. It's showing off its power. "here, in a furry of sound and spray, the power of roaring water and a trembling earth meet. Echoes of timeless battle assault our senses" The poeatic info says that.

I liked its info board a lot too. "Trapped and spinning under water's direction, particles of sand, silt and gravel carve like a diamond drill. The river took thousands of years to drill the potholes now suspended on the canyon walls. The pothols you see forming today will one day be suspended on the walls of an even deeper canyon."

This is my favorite place in Canadian Rockies.

As night fell, we continued to Malign Lake, and stayed there briefly. On the way back, we met a bear family up close. A bear mum and two bear babies, having dinners, they were just a few feets away from our car.

We stayed at 110 Concaught str. The B&B was really nice, though the Thai food we ordered was a drag.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) V

27 Sep 06

游侯

一天里最印象深刻的是EMERALD湖。比LOUISE大。我们绕湖一周。3。2英里。一边是干,热,草枯叶黄,太阳晒着一切,只有松树是绿的。我们拍着蜘蛛网,和艳红的叶子,顶着太阳,没有太多的好心情。直到我们到达湖底,景色大变。我们走进了树林,湿润的空气,绿的草,绿的树,绿的苔藓。这是湖的另一面。因为太阳光,湖的两边是全然不一样的环境,不同的植物生长在两边。一边阴,一边阳。我们的相机不能完全描述两边的差别。

Yoho

Bow lake, Bow summit, Peto lake. Not very impressive. Cold morning.

We visited Yoho, solely to see the Emerald Lake. It's much bigger than Lake Louise. We hiked around the lake, 3.2 mile. The trail along one side of the lake is dry, burn by sun. But the other side is misty, full of moss, underbushes. Let info tells the story:



"water has affected this valley by its absence as well as its presence. This forest, strewn with needles and lichens, receives less rain than the opposite shore and gravelly soild it grows on quickly carries away what rain it does get. In summer, the sun beats directly down on this slope, sucking moisture from the plants and the soild. As a result, the plants here captures moisture quickly and hoard it tenaciously in order to stay alive. This is not the case in some other parts of valley, where, as you will see, conditions are wetter."
--
"you have reached the end of the lake - nearly the half way point on the trail and a place where water is working to landfil the lake it created as glacial ice and metlwater thousands of years ago. Fast-flowing streams sunddenly slowed where the valley flattens, dump loose rocks and coarse gravel to form this plain. The growth of this alluvial fan is especially rapid in late spring when runoff is at its peak. The fan will grow until the lake is completely filled. It may tkae as long to fill in the lake as it took to carve it out but the disappearance of Emeradle lake is inevitable."



Revisit Bow Valley parkway, muleshoes meadow, met two celebrated local photographers (with big cameras). Pilot pond. Ugly. But the short trail is indeed steep. Spiced the hike of the day up a bit.

Dinner: Banff Italian, Guidio. so so.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) IV

26 Sep 06

路易思湖

早晨清冷,天阴着。湖面平静,大名鼎鼎的路易思湖,映着包围她的雪山,水是微微的蓝绿之间。五颜六色的小划船息在船屋前。游人的多让我们吃惊,相机的闪光灯在湖的对岸时起彼伏,好象很多是日本人。

然后是AGNES湖,要爬3。4公里。有的地方很陡,苦尽甘来,爬完之后可以喝茶。一座木材的茶馆临湖而立。湖很小。茶也一般。景色一流。充分享受小茶馆,读完了我在读的一本书。而晓楠拍照,之之不倦。

下午开经BOW VALLEY 大道,停停走走,看了瀑布。但还是金黄的树林让我们惊艳。 阳光照在一片白桦林上,我们弃车而下,拍。5分钟后,居然下雨。我们仍然拍个不停。1分钟后,一道彩虹出现。

晚饭是家日本料理。赞。

Lake Louise

It was a grey morning, chilly. The lake is quiet. The water is there, under the clouds. But a sense of serenity brought by this huge set of water, shimming the green color.

Two main peaks form a V shape, where the lake somehow meets the mountain, appears and disappears.

A small boat house harbors doubles of canoes, facing down, red.

Many travellers along the lake, that surprised us, because, it was 7:30 in the morning, but, a lot of people has arrived before us. A lot cameras working. The flash lights off at the opposite of lake, that startered us, also made me smile. How many times this water have been photoed?

Trail to lake Agnes, 3.4 km. evalation gain 1312 feets. It was tough! Part of it is very steep. Well, at the end of trail, it rewarded us with the tea house along with lake Anges. I thoroughly enjoyed the tea house, spent more than two hours here. Finished the "west in the night", the final a few chapters. We had hummus sandwich, peppermint tea, and hot chocolate for me later while waiting for xiaonan to come back from his hike up to BeeHives.

Lunch inside the car.

Then we headed to Bow Valley Parkway. First stop is Johnson Cannon. The air is full of water. The info says "listen to the water, feel its power and its life". Hiking up to upper fall was nice, a typical waterfall hike. Moist in the air, water running inside the creek, ferns and moss flourish on the rocks, along the creek, bird chirping in distance. Part of road is actually the suspended rail which extended from the cliff.

Driving on Bow Valley Parkway, back to Canmore, many breathtaking stops. sun casts rays on the bright yellow larch trees. The railway along the creek in the valley. Well, the mountain peaks are always there, as background. You tend to forget them, until they are lit by sun again and again, taking your breath away. Many photos taken. regret my poor techniques, didn't capture what I saw, what I wanted to carry the memory as. hmm.. Need visit muleshoe meadow. The sunshine meadow worth the revisit too.

It starts to rain. We saw the rainbow over the larch trees. The rainbow was brief, it seems to be for us two only. :o)

Back to Hwy 1, a few miles before exit 83, we had to stop and move the car to shoulder. The sun was doing its magic again, the peaks were lit up, the lagoon, the trees, the clouds, the mist (because of rain) lingering on top of the peaks, everything was just there, at that moment. Truely thankful.

Dinner choice is Chef's Studio Japan (http://chefsstudiojapan.com). The food was greet, the sushi, Tempura (I didn't know Tempura could taste that good), and Alberta Beef. Yammy.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) III

25 Sep 06

班芙

清晨一大早我们就出发前往MORAINE湖。这是洛基山脉众多的雪山溶湖之一,由溶化的雪水积成。湖水泛蓝,是因为雪水从山上冲下来的时候,带了石粉,细小的粉末在水里反射太阳光,将美丽的蓝色反射到了我们的眼里。我们早上7:30到达湖边,冻得半死。敲开湖边饭店的门,美丽的加拿大眉眉给我们开门,但没有咖啡,因为还没有开门。我们少歇片刻,去湖边散步。太冷,总觉这个大名鼎鼎的湖有点虚有其名。

再次回到湖边饭店,另一位美丽的加拿大眉眉给我们端来了咖啡,还是免费的。

再回湖边,沿山向上,我们要去LARCH谷。一路辛苦爬山,还担心着熊,山下路开始的地方挂着排子:6人以上才可上山(人多不怕熊?)。我们两个早起的鸟将山头占为己有,只希望熊熊不要来凑热闹。一小时的山路以后,终于到达LARCH谷。金黄的树林,九座雪峰环绕,风过,草矮。晓楠高高兴兴的啪呀啪,“今天的任务完成了。”同感。

等我们下山,已是午饭时分。决定去吃班芙第一流的大旅馆加饭店:FAIRMONT温泉大旅馆。它的午饭自助餐很有名的。我们大吃一顿,好吃,环境又好。

下面逛街。又洗温泉。一天又过。

Banff

Based on past experience (mostly Yellowstone trip), Xiaonan decided we need hit the road very early every day. So, we got up and headed for Moraine Lake at 6:00am. It was a very cold morning. As we arrived at Moraine lake, it was still dark, only the lodge aside the lake had light on. There were no way we could enjoy anything when we were half frozen, so, the two early birds knocked the lodge cafe. A cup of hot coffee would save us. The hostess inside unlocked the door and let us in, but no coffee, they were not open yet.

We took a brief walk around the Moraine lake. Somehow it was a bit disappointing. It was described as the double must see in area. But, the lake was small, the water was light blue with a hint of green. As a lot of lakes in the Rocky area, this is a galacier lake. It's feed by meltwater from the surrouding galacial peaks. "The glaciers grind the rock beneacth them in to fine power, called rock flour. Meltwater wash this powder into the lake, the resulant slity water absorbs all colors of incoming light, except the striking turquoise and vivid blue that reflects back to our eyes." The note from the lakeside tells the secret of the lake. Walter Wilcox was the first white reached it in 1899. He wrote "no scene has given me an equal impression of inspring solitude and rugged grandeur". However, we didn't feel the same.

When we back to the lodge cafe again, another hostess in soft French accent offered us coffee, finally, also for free! Xiaonan thought both hostesses were quite beautiful.

After Xiaonan agreed to have breakfast in this lodge cafe after the walk, we headed for the Larch Valley trail. It's a 1.8 mile hike, elevation gain is 1310 feet. We suppose to travel in 6 people group (this is bear area), ok, we didn't, being the early birds. It was all uphill, thus tough. When we finally reached the valley, it was worthwhile. The glacited mountains embrace the valley, there are more than 9 peaks all around. Then in the valley, the larch forest surroundes a large piece of meadow. Those larch trees have turned a brillant gold. We were the only two guests there, in the valley. Xiaona took photos. I sat on top of a log bridge and drool over the views. It was so quiet up there. The water was runing in the creek, the birds wre chirping, diffrent ones had diffrent songs. Somehow I thought I could hear the wind crossing the meadow.

When we back to lodge cafe, we missed breakfast already. So we decided to have lunch in the famouse Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. It was built first in 1888, and expanded twice in 1928 and 1999. The hotel is huge, it's a castle. We had lunch inside the hotel. The lunch buffet. The food was heavenly, salmon, beef, all so tender, even tasty bistons. The mango mouse was so delicious! $28 each.

Then we shop dead along Banff Ave. Too expensive though, only bought very few items.

Then we spent the afternoon in upper hot spring. The 39'C hot water, in a swiming pool. We soaked in, under the blue sky, enjoying the breeze and great view. It was a good day too.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) II

24 Sep 06

在路上。

开了500多英里,12小时,从温哥华,1号,5号,1号高速公路,经过班芙,到CANMORE.

下塌Bear County lodge, $49 一晚,待四个晚上。小旅馆非常干净舒服,两张大床,前台的接待生是好看的加拿大美美。我们的旅馆后面有铁轨,而"三姐妹"雪山也宁静的站在远远的天边。 CANMORE是个小镇,两条街,都是大大小小的旅馆和饭店们。已是在洛基山脉区,大雪山们拥抱着小镇,我们也习已为常,一路高速公路我们已开始饱缆洛基雪山的秀色。雪山和绿头的山交错在一起,延绵不绝,阳光的变化,时时勾画不同的景色气向。

晚饭是"SAGE BISTRO",我们的旅行书上推荐的,果然很好。晓楠点的小羊腿好吃极了,加上临窗的座位,吃着好的,看着夕阳将天边染红,很为满足。

On the road

The day was spent on driving, over 500 miles, 12 hours. When we left Vancouver in the early morning, the city was still sleepy. Mist was everywhere, along the highway. I managed to persuade Xiaonan not to stop for the photo since I worried about our 12 hour driving plan. We thought this would be common in the area. But we were wrong, that was the most beautiful morning we saw during our trip. And xiaonan only took very few photos in a hurry. Mornings in Canadian Rockies area turned out to be not that great.

Highways we covered include 99, 1, 3, 5 then 1 again. My complain, mainly, was that Canada government seems not concern about well beings of travelers. There are so FEW restrooms in the highway!! The signs in Canada highway tend to be much smaller, less frequent, unlike US highway, "rest area" or "gas station" signs are everywhere, bigger, and reminded many times before the real exit. Well, in Canada highway, when you see "rest area" sign, you will miss the turn/exit for sure. I missed two precious "rest area" signs, (they are so few in the first place, especially in highway 1 and 5), and started to curse along the way. The other difference we observed while driving is there are so many trucks in the highway. They move all kinds of stuff: logs, steels, pipes. The presence of big truck made the driving fun, when the highway has only one lane in each direction. There would be a passing lane every 10 miles or so. So, our job was to chase all the slow trucks in that direction and try to pass them. It was fun.

Twelve hours later, we arrived to Canmore in time. Bear County Lodge was a nice surprise. The hotel uses old country style. A fire was burning lazily in the lobby. The room was nice, has double queen beds. It's a bargain for $45 per night. We stayed here for 4 nights. When we checking out the railways at the back, the "three sisters" were welcoming us there. Then we were reminded again we were now in Canadian Rockies area. Those glacier mountains are everywhere, they hug the town, the highway and us. We have saw them several hours ago in the highway, now, we were at the heart of it, where we could see some of its best peaks and lakes.

Dinner at Sage Bistro. It's recommend by our moon handbook. The book was quite right. Xiaonan's order Lamb Shank was so good! I ordered meatloaf as it was recommended in the book. We were seated close to window. The sun was busy coloring the sky and the mountains. We were enjoying the food and the view, and thinking this was perfect.

Canadian Rockies (加拿大洛基山脉流水帐) I

23 Sep 06

温哥华。

住在了列治文区的一个三星客栈,$95的房间小小窄窄的,居然是一张小双人床,还好只待一个晚上。下午到,立马游山玩水:选了GRANVILLE岛。沿海滩大道乱开,美丽的太平洋环抱着小岛,傍晚的太阳还很刺眼,街上人头怅动,极热闹。我们一直逛到夕阳西下,最是眼馋街边的小饭馆们,可以喝着热茶看着大海,一排一排,坐满了游客了。

我们的晚饭也令人期待。大名鼎鼎的"新瑞华"酒家。呵呵,鲍翅汤,烤乳鸽,很不错的。就是太贵。花了九十大洋,好象还没吃过这么贵的一顿饭。所以特别好奇当地的香港人只么着这么有钱?他们的桌上多是大虾大蟹,哓楠同学没舍得点皇帝蟹给我吃,哼哼。。

温哥华让人好奇的还有:车车趴在大马路的最右边的路上,车开一会儿便得抵防要换道,前面的道被趴的车给挡了。满大街中文的店和他们的中文店名们,八佰半大超市,绵被店,油漆店,呵呵,好象到了中国。

Vancouver

We stayed in Vancouver only for one night. In the afternoon, we arrived to Quality Hotel, the three star hotel we booked for $95. The small room and one double-bed (instead of double beds) surprised us. The hotel seems to be equipped by furniture from IKEA, and you need your room key to use the hotel elevator, which we figured it out later. So many places to go, so little time. Finally we decided to visit Granville Island.

After getting off the bridge, we were out of reach of my printed directions, somehow we found ourselves driving on Beach Ave. That was a good choice. One side was the bay shimmering under the 6' clock sun, one side was the busy street full of tourists and interesting cafes and shops. Parked car, a delicious mango ice cream later, we found ourselves part of street. The place felt like San Francisco, but warmer.Xiaonan and I engaged in taking photos respectively. We had different shot objects. Xiaonan was interested in ocean, the sun and sunset, the stone towers people made. I found sudden interest in the chairs along the beach. They were donated by people for different reasons. Some were in memories of their loved ones, some were for celebrating the 20 or 30 years of anniversary, which was donated by their children. Each chair tells a story, yet, they are still chairs, quietly being there, bathing in the sun, waiting to comfort tired legs.

Many hours later, the night fell. We headed back to Richmond. Our dinner was waiting for us in that famous restaurant "Xin Hui Hua". The dishes were good, as well as expensive. It looked like we were only guests in the house who came only in two, and who didn't know how to order. The rest of guests (many of them at 9' clock, the close time for most bay area restaurants) came most in groups, family or friends, they order those big fancy dishes. I was eating my stuff and looking at those colors of dishes flying in by waitress: the red jumbo shrimp, the white live fish, the orange "pao" fish, the colorful crab ... Paid $90, xiaonan and left the "Xin" house with satisfaction.

That concludes our stay in Vancouver, the city I found the touch of San Fransisco and, the taste of Los Angels.

Sunday, October 22, 2006

rim to rim

14 Oct 06
Saturday
Grand Canyon, Kaibab trail

  • 06:40am
    Started at South rim South Kaibab trail head.
    It's gray and was raining now and then.
  • "150 hiker have been down to the canyon this morning", told by the bus driver.
  • "Now it's 156 hikers" said KK, as a couple passed the four of us (KK, Vlad, nan and me), the couple too were heading for the north rim too.
  • Shower, water was pouring down from sky, running from the mountain, when we half way down to the bottom of the valley
  • Shoes wet, pants wet, hats wet, jackets wet.
  • Met two group of travelers by mules, close to the first restroom stop (wanted to go back)


  • 10:10am Reached the black bridge over the Colorado river
  • First sandwich stop at Phantom Ranch (we don't have a Sandwich, BTW, we lived on by nuts, energy bars and beef jerks). 14 miles to go.
  • KK asked for ALLEVEL, the pain killer for his aching feet. He and Vlad had hiked from the south to the north the day before.
  • Nan and I parted with KK and Vlad due to our little bit faster pace



  • Sun shine. Rain finally stopped.
  • Caught up by KK and Vlad before the Ribbon Fall
  • Ribbon Fall was in the color of red due to the rain. The color of Grand Canyon.
  • Passed an old couple again.


  • "Ribbon Fall via bridge" says the sign: "who on the earth in the right mind would like to visit Ribbon Fall?" we asked. Rule for a view: location matterrs, we suggested in our mind.
  • Second sandwich stop at CottonWood. KK and Vlad arrived 15 or 20 minutes later. A nice hiker gave nan Bandit for his first blister in the feet. 7 miles to go.
  • Last drinking water stop before the final 6 miles. Caught two same hikers resting in Cottonwood. Filled one bottle of water. (1 bottle of water, 1.5 bottles of Galade left)
  • The two hikers passed us one by one. The one in red jacket showed in upper trails now and then, reminding us where the trail was.
  • An american girl in white sweater shirt passed us too. "It is brutal" she commented. "She has strong legs", I didn't mind Nan looking at other women's legs right now.


  • 16:30pm Somewhere in North Kaibab trail.
  • Was told by an old gentleman there was 4 miles left, both of us hated him. "he must be wrong, should be only 3 or 2 miles left" we agreed with each other.
  • Reached the bridge (last bridge North Kaibab trail), KK said 3 miles left , the old man was correct on the previous 4 mile remark. :o(
  • KK called, he waved from the bridge. We were in slow pace, KK's wave rekindled some of our energy, we started to pick up our pace again.
  • Discoverd energy bars were quite useful.
  • Reached the tunnel. "1.8 miles" a woman told us. A blow! "should be 18 feet" Nan pleaed.
  • Night starts to fall. Clouds gathered. It rained again (how long did it start to rain again? we failed to notice)
  • A group of cheerful women, "half miles" left. They were laughing.
  • Learned from nan a mile equals to 1600 meters. Started to count 100 meters. Reached 4 x 800meters and counting (why we hasn't arrived yet?)
  • "How far is it from the top?" we still hasn't learned our lessons, asking a hiker who traveled from the top (why he was doing that at that hour was beyond us). "half mile, 30 minutes, it took me 15 minutes from the top".
  • Met another two hikers who standing in the turn of the trail, with headlight. We stopped too besides them. "this is the last turn". As soon as the voice finished, we jumped like two startled rabits, and rushed into the trail with renewed hope. HOPE. "we guys are my gods". Nan shouted back (he must startle the two guys with this comment).
  • The last turn was long. I was counting and it reached 700 meters ...

  • 18:39pm Reached top of North rim
  • Photo time and kisses, in the total dark. Yeah!
  • 18:50pm North rim parking lot, inside car, Haha....
  • 7:10pm KK and Vlad arrived

  • 8:00pm hot shower, turned heater in hotel room to maxiumn
  • Nan borrowed KK's spare pair of dry socks
  • Heater busy with drying our socks, pants, underwears and etc.
  • 8:40pm dinner in lodge cafe (the worst buffalo wings ever tasted, we ate all 6)
  • 9:30pm in bed, with aching body, half-full stomach, and question why and how we did this?

    15 Oct 06

  • 5:30am The icy morning.
  • 6:10am delightful found lodge was open already
  • 6:30am breakfast in lodge cafe





  • 7:00am watching the son of the lodge hostess started the fire for the lodge's fire place (to start a fire from the logs is not an easy job). Snowing outside
  • 7:35am the promised rim-rim shuttle didn't arrive, really late. Nan made the lodge hostess to call the shuttle drivers
  • 7:50am inside shuttle, heading back to the north rim

  • this is the t-shirt I should have bought but did not. It says "Survivor of rim to rim hike". Here are two.
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